W.E.A.R= WATER,ELECTRICITY AND
REFRIGERATION.
Feb. 8. 2016 By mike Dunningham.
EMAIL; gosnaphoto@gmai.com
Ph. 0428688000
Probably the most troublesome of the three main travelling/camping issues would be having sufficient water on hand. The second being electricity and the third is of course refrigeration. I am going to add a brief paragraph on both the second and third issues later but right now we are discussing drinking water and how to obtain it without fuss from pretty well anywhere you may venture. Imagine Loading up anywhere with water from nonpotable water tanks, billabongs and rivers. Reduce your travelling load/weight because you can simply make your own drinking water quickly and easily wherever you end up.
You may be quite happy to rely on town water, and I watch folks ferrying Gerry cans each day from the nearest town. Every day they go back and forth, and that’s one way of doing it but to
Feb. 8. 2016 By mike Dunningham.
EMAIL; gosnaphoto@gmai.com
Ph. 0428688000
Probably the most troublesome of the three main travelling/camping issues would be having sufficient water on hand. The second being electricity and the third is of course refrigeration. I am going to add a brief paragraph on both the second and third issues later but right now we are discussing drinking water and how to obtain it without fuss from pretty well anywhere you may venture. Imagine Loading up anywhere with water from nonpotable water tanks, billabongs and rivers. Reduce your travelling load/weight because you can simply make your own drinking water quickly and easily wherever you end up.
You may be quite happy to rely on town water, and I watch folks ferrying Gerry cans each day from the nearest town. Every day they go back and forth, and that’s one way of doing it but to
me it takes a lot of effort and the quality isn’t all
that hot when you realize that town water is
drawn from a catchment area consisting of crop
farms which use rather nasty sprays. In town
water you have Herbicides, insecticides,
fungicides etc., and also you have chlorine,
which has recently been upgraded to gas
chlorine and this is seriously unhealthy and
finally good old fluoride. That chlorine aroma
you get when you turn the tap on is actually the
smell of the dead pathogens in the water. Lovely.
Because of this all homes and RV’s should be
using some form of filtration.
My aim here is to describe how to obtain absolutely perfect drinking water from the bush. My travelling rig is somewhat bush orientated but the method may be adapted to any RV or caravan. I will describe in detail each step as it’s taken and I will include the make, cost and where I have purchased all the machinery,
along with the flocculent, sanitizing agents and their required mixing ratios. It’s so quick and easy you will wonder why you never thought about it before.
My aim here is to describe how to obtain absolutely perfect drinking water from the bush. My travelling rig is somewhat bush orientated but the method may be adapted to any RV or caravan. I will describe in detail each step as it’s taken and I will include the make, cost and where I have purchased all the machinery,
along with the flocculent, sanitizing agents and their required mixing ratios. It’s so quick and easy you will wonder why you never thought about it before.
Lets look at what we need to start with.
In the pump box photo you will see two pumps,
above which are the individual switches. The
top pump [#1] is kept solely for reverse
osmoses [clean] water so it’s the lower pump
[#2]weneedtofocuson. Itssetuptobea
detachable unit and is used to pump water from
out of creek gullies and then general usage
around the camp. The filter you can see in the
blue housing is a 0.5-micron washable ceramic,
which will produce sparkling clean water. Note
the collapsible 200- liter water tank bottom left.
This batching tank is an important piece of
equipment. Make sure its base is set up
perfectly level. Once the job is complete it packs
up so small you almost have a problem finding
it.
Occasionally you may have water right outside your doorstep, which means you can leave the #2 pump where it is, though often you will find a tricky spot, which will test you. Here we have to reach down the riverbank. In the picture I have 5.7-meter drop to the water and I think you will be amazed at how well this little pump performed.
You can see the pump on its 15meter extension cord, sitting about one meter above the river,
Occasionally you may have water right outside your doorstep, which means you can leave the #2 pump where it is, though often you will find a tricky spot, which will test you. Here we have to reach down the riverbank. In the picture I have 5.7-meter drop to the water and I think you will be amazed at how well this little pump performed.
You can see the pump on its 15meter extension cord, sitting about one meter above the river,
leaving a remaining 4.7-meter head to the camp.
Holding the hose one meter off the ground at
the top, the pump gave a whopping eight liters a
minute. That’s the best part of a six-meter head.
When I hooked up the second pump as a test,
the flow rate only increased by one liter making
it nine liters total so thirty meters of 12 mm
hose is creating a lot of friction. This means one
pump is all you need. Max flow rate normally is
11.2 liters a minute, no lift, no head, so the extra
load barely affects it. Amazing. Check summary
for pump details. The water is being pumped
directly into our collapsible water tank and this
will take less than half an hour. As it is filling we
add Aluminum sulphate as a flocculent and
calcium hypochlorite as a sanitizer. If you
intend to RO some of your water leave the
Cal/Hyp out for now. Mix ratios will be in the
summary. The flocculent begins to work pretty
fast so after an hour or two the water is looking
great. I prefer to leave it overnight for best
results. The sanitizer needs thirty minutes to
make the water safe to drink but again I leave it
one hour as a minimum to be on the safe side.
Health departments in third world countries
use cal/sulph for its reliability and long storage
life. You use so little each time that a kilo will be
in the boot of your van for many months so its
good to know you can rely on it to last.
It makes me chuckle when I see some of the
fancy works of art blokes use with their brass
foot valves, floats, tethers and stuff. I reckon it
just about requires its own locker. All you need
is the plastic container you use for your hose
fittings; drill a few holes here and there and
voila! You have your strainer. The end most
hose fitting is a stop fitting and becomes a foot
valve, the cord, which we all use to tie up the
coiled
hose, becomes your tether and a tent peg becomes your anchor. Don’t forget an inline filter before your pump. I like to use a 3⁄4 inch filter reduced down to fit the 12 mm hose, as it’s screen is four times the size of the half-inch filter. So far it has taken about fifteen minutes to set up. Half an hour will fill the tank and about a
hose, becomes your tether and a tent peg becomes your anchor. Don’t forget an inline filter before your pump. I like to use a 3⁄4 inch filter reduced down to fit the 12 mm hose, as it’s screen is four times the size of the half-inch filter. So far it has taken about fifteen minutes to set up. Half an hour will fill the tank and about a
further twenty minutes to pack it all away when
you have finished. Tomorrow you can fill the
tanks in the van with lovely clean water and
relax for a while.
If you want really perfect drinking water lets take it to the next level. Reverse osmosis [RO] removes heavy metals, fungicides etc. from drinking water. These killers come mainly from farms due to run off straight into the water catchment area, where council treats it to supply as your town water. It’s filtered, chlorinated and fluoridated then delivered to your tap. Don’t forget farm runoff chemical’s are still in your town water and this is where I get all fussy and use my RO water purifying system. Details on where to get this gear will be in the summary.
If you want really perfect drinking water lets take it to the next level. Reverse osmosis [RO] removes heavy metals, fungicides etc. from drinking water. These killers come mainly from farms due to run off straight into the water catchment area, where council treats it to supply as your town water. It’s filtered, chlorinated and fluoridated then delivered to your tap. Don’t forget farm runoff chemical’s are still in your town water and this is where I get all fussy and use my RO water purifying system. Details on where to get this gear will be in the summary.
All the RO equipment is kept separately. On the
top shelf we have a dedicated 2.2-liter per hour
pump. This low volume unit is designed
especially for the RO system. The faster pumps
will stop/start on you a bit where as this one
runs steady at 125 psi, nice and slow and at a
pressure that the RO loves. It is 24 volt via a
240-volt step down transformer between which
I placed a toggle switch and fuse.
The actual RO unit is the six-stage model that gives beautifully clean, balanced, oxygenated water that once used in tea or ice cubes for your scotch becomes a lifetime habit. You will never
The actual RO unit is the six-stage model that gives beautifully clean, balanced, oxygenated water that once used in tea or ice cubes for your scotch becomes a lifetime habit. You will never
go back to town water ever again. I’m getting
ten liters an hour from mine so it doesn’t take
much time to fill up a twenty liter container
lasting three or four days. My method is to fill a
20 liter bucket with unsanitized water via
the .5 micron ceramic filter and let the RO pump pick it up. To obtain 20 liters it will need filling twice as 50% of water is rejected by the RO system. This is not wasted as I use that reject water around the camp. The FSA system uses a balanced, economical ratio of 50% treated to 50% rejected water. Check on the one you may be looking at, as some are around 5:1 ratio, waste to treated.
SUMMARY;
Pumps. Model 4009 Shurflo makes these
amazing pumps. They draw only 5.2 amps
and are the latest version, taking over from the old workhorse model 2088. A bit on the heavy side but very sturdy. At $105 from Caravan Plus how can you go wrong? If you do not require a pressure switch pump, think about the Rule Congo submersible or something similar.
Electric cable. It may sound silly to mention
the .5 micron ceramic filter and let the RO pump pick it up. To obtain 20 liters it will need filling twice as 50% of water is rejected by the RO system. This is not wasted as I use that reject water around the camp. The FSA system uses a balanced, economical ratio of 50% treated to 50% rejected water. Check on the one you may be looking at, as some are around 5:1 ratio, waste to treated.
SUMMARY;
Pumps. Model 4009 Shurflo makes these
amazing pumps. They draw only 5.2 amps
and are the latest version, taking over from the old workhorse model 2088. A bit on the heavy side but very sturdy. At $105 from Caravan Plus how can you go wrong? If you do not require a pressure switch pump, think about the Rule Congo submersible or something similar.
Electric cable. It may sound silly to mention
wire but it’s really not at all. Use
only tinned wire if you can. I have used 6mm tinned dual core for the extension. If you are not able to so and even if you solder the joints make sure you use Aluminox to any bare wire or other joints, especially up into the plastic so as to avoid electrolysis. You will be sorry if you don’t. My philosophy regarding wiring is doing the job once not twice.
Water tank.
As seen in the photo this collapsible water tank is a seriously heavy-duty piece of kit. Every free camper must own one. It doesn’t matter whether you fill it by carrying buckets or use a pump; this item is absolutely essential for spending time down by the river. Go to Australian Direct and at $99 it’s the best dollar you’ll ever spend.
Flocculent. Aluminum sulphate [ALUM] is the flocculent everybody
recognizes. Great stuff. Add it to the tank as you are filling at a rate of one slightly heaped teaspoon for every 200 liters. Stick to straight
only tinned wire if you can. I have used 6mm tinned dual core for the extension. If you are not able to so and even if you solder the joints make sure you use Aluminox to any bare wire or other joints, especially up into the plastic so as to avoid electrolysis. You will be sorry if you don’t. My philosophy regarding wiring is doing the job once not twice.
Water tank.
As seen in the photo this collapsible water tank is a seriously heavy-duty piece of kit. Every free camper must own one. It doesn’t matter whether you fill it by carrying buckets or use a pump; this item is absolutely essential for spending time down by the river. Go to Australian Direct and at $99 it’s the best dollar you’ll ever spend.
Flocculent. Aluminum sulphate [ALUM] is the flocculent everybody
recognizes. Great stuff. Add it to the tank as you are filling at a rate of one slightly heaped teaspoon for every 200 liters. Stick to straight
crystals for reliability.
Water sanitizer. Be strict with your measuring as the health of your family is
involved here. Survivaltopics.com say the following.
.....................................................................................................
2005 by Ron Fontaine.
Better than Bleach: Use Calcium Hypochlorite to Disinfect Water May 4,
To make a stock of chlorine solution (do not drink this!) dissolve 1 heaping teaspoon
(about one-quarter of an ounce) of high-test (78%) granular calcium hypochlorite for each two gallons (eight liters) of water. To disinfect water add one part of this chlorine solution to 100 parts water to be treated. Let the mixture sit for at least one- half hour before drinking
Copyright © SurvivalTopics.com Read more at: http://survivaltopics.com/better-than- bleach-use-calcium- hypochlorite-to-disinfect-water/
................................................................................................. ..............
That makes up to a quarter of a teaspoon for 200 liters if my math’s is correct. Using a 1⁄4 tsp.
Water sanitizer. Be strict with your measuring as the health of your family is
involved here. Survivaltopics.com say the following.
.....................................................................................................
2005 by Ron Fontaine.
Better than Bleach: Use Calcium Hypochlorite to Disinfect Water May 4,
To make a stock of chlorine solution (do not drink this!) dissolve 1 heaping teaspoon
(about one-quarter of an ounce) of high-test (78%) granular calcium hypochlorite for each two gallons (eight liters) of water. To disinfect water add one part of this chlorine solution to 100 parts water to be treated. Let the mixture sit for at least one- half hour before drinking
Copyright © SurvivalTopics.com Read more at: http://survivaltopics.com/better-than- bleach-use-calcium- hypochlorite-to-disinfect-water/
................................................................................................. ..............
That makes up to a quarter of a teaspoon for 200 liters if my math’s is correct. Using a 1⁄4 tsp.
measure, have the granules just higher than the lip
but not heaped. Uppermost in favour of
calcium/hypochlorite in my mind is the fact that
health organizations all over the world use it for its
long-term reliability. Bunning’s have it at about
$17 for 2 kilos, and again get the granules for long
shelf life. For me that’s a ten-year supply.
Filters and the Reverse Osmoses unit. After eight months research I came back to Filter Systems
Australia [FSA] for this side of things. All My buddies agree for price and service. The RO was $300 plus the sturdy 125psi pump $170. This pump is a bit heavier than I imagined it would be, but the service life is great. 24 volt motor drawing one amp per hour through a step down 240vlt transformer. Power it up through the
inverter. The .5-micron ceramic filter is the washable model and was only $ 30 odd. It cleans up easily and the filter casing, having plug in hose fittings both sides means I am able to reverse the water flow in order to reverse flush it after scrubbing. Don’t put Cal/ Hyp through the RO unit, as it will degrade your RO membrane. On the subject of salt volume in the water, consider
buying a TDS meter so as to get an accurate ppm
Filters and the Reverse Osmoses unit. After eight months research I came back to Filter Systems
Australia [FSA] for this side of things. All My buddies agree for price and service. The RO was $300 plus the sturdy 125psi pump $170. This pump is a bit heavier than I imagined it would be, but the service life is great. 24 volt motor drawing one amp per hour through a step down 240vlt transformer. Power it up through the
inverter. The .5-micron ceramic filter is the washable model and was only $ 30 odd. It cleans up easily and the filter casing, having plug in hose fittings both sides means I am able to reverse the water flow in order to reverse flush it after scrubbing. Don’t put Cal/ Hyp through the RO unit, as it will degrade your RO membrane. On the subject of salt volume in the water, consider
buying a TDS meter so as to get an accurate ppm
reading. Less than $50.You don’t want more than
2700 ppm to safe guard your RO filtration unit.
Preferably a lot less. See the boys at FSA on this
and see if you will require one where you are. It
could be a money saver for you to have one on
board.
I mention the following two items, as these help to make for pleasant camping. Everything must work in harmony and be hassle free.
REFRIGERA TION.
A fridge is only as good as its insulation along with a big powerful compressor. That combination will dictate the correct usage for that fridge. It’s not the brand or ones loyalty to that brand that cuts the ice. Its not fancy electronics or canvas covers. In the end its simply heavy-duty machinery and good old insulation. I own both a Trailblazer [75mm wall thickness] and an Engel [40 mm wall thickness]. 75mm wall will require around 30 amps total per day in the territories as opposed to 5 amps per hour, running virtually nonstop for the thin-skinned job. That’s a huge difference to consider when you work the figures. The Australian army, international governments and medical outfits use these and they cost about the
I mention the following two items, as these help to make for pleasant camping. Everything must work in harmony and be hassle free.
REFRIGERA TION.
A fridge is only as good as its insulation along with a big powerful compressor. That combination will dictate the correct usage for that fridge. It’s not the brand or ones loyalty to that brand that cuts the ice. Its not fancy electronics or canvas covers. In the end its simply heavy-duty machinery and good old insulation. I own both a Trailblazer [75mm wall thickness] and an Engel [40 mm wall thickness]. 75mm wall will require around 30 amps total per day in the territories as opposed to 5 amps per hour, running virtually nonstop for the thin-skinned job. That’s a huge difference to consider when you work the figures. The Australian army, international governments and medical outfits use these and they cost about the
same price as the lightweights. Alternatively look
for fridges designed for Aussie conditions that are
powerful and therefore become efficient
because they do the job quicker. There are many to choose from but now at least you will have an idea what to look for. Bear in mind, bigger, more powerful compressors may have a larger draw but run for less time each day, making them more efficient by handling ambient temperatures quickly. If you can afford the power usage of the more domestic units try them but have a good look around first.
POWER. This is the nuts and bolts of all your basic camping needs. If you want really long life and maximum power from your, batteries there is no alternative to lithium. 5000 recharge cycles as opposed to less than 600 [its recharge cycles and not years],gives your battery ‘years’ more life. They weigh only a fraction of the old deep cycle jobs and are a 1/3 smaller. Almost all campers are having some issue with battery power. Those that are ok now are only so for the moment because as recharge cycles are used so does the reserve power of your batteries diminish. When you reach 300 of your total 600 recharge cycles, you have around
because they do the job quicker. There are many to choose from but now at least you will have an idea what to look for. Bear in mind, bigger, more powerful compressors may have a larger draw but run for less time each day, making them more efficient by handling ambient temperatures quickly. If you can afford the power usage of the more domestic units try them but have a good look around first.
POWER. This is the nuts and bolts of all your basic camping needs. If you want really long life and maximum power from your, batteries there is no alternative to lithium. 5000 recharge cycles as opposed to less than 600 [its recharge cycles and not years],gives your battery ‘years’ more life. They weigh only a fraction of the old deep cycle jobs and are a 1/3 smaller. Almost all campers are having some issue with battery power. Those that are ok now are only so for the moment because as recharge cycles are used so does the reserve power of your batteries diminish. When you reach 300 of your total 600 recharge cycles, you have around
half of the 50 amps you started with. Your 100-
amp battery new had 50% amps available. A
battery weighing thirty-kilos having been
recharged a full 300 of its 600 recharge cycles now
has a reserve of around 25-amp hours. Sounds
rather silly, but this is what happens. It’s at this
point that folks start thinking they need another
solar panel or they begin wearing out their
expensive generators. Sorry but your battery’s are
wearing out.
If you are starting afresh with a new van don’t
consider anything else but lithium. Buy right and
they are not expensive. I prefer the heavy- duty,
commercial, 3.2volt cells with balancing units
between each of the four cells. The reason for this
is I am able to replace a single cell and not the
entire battery. Be pleasantly surprised and go to
E.V. WORKS. W.A to check the prices on these
serious batteries. I love to yarn about the lithium
setup so email me if you are looking for more
details as this is a big subject and deserves full
consideration.
Remember it’s all about Water, Power & Refrigeration. [Acronym W.E.A.R.]
So lets get out there and spend some time with these guys.
Remember it’s all about Water, Power & Refrigeration. [Acronym W.E.A.R.]
So lets get out there and spend some time with these guys.
Its all about fun and relaxation.
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